DIY jaws for bench vices

Vise for metalwork: do it yourself

When doing plumbing and carpentry work, a home-made craftsman cannot do without a powerful vice. Larger, newer vises are expensive. The solution is to either look for a used vice on the secondary market, or roll up your sleeves and, if you have a welding machine and an angle grinder, make an inexpensive vice with your own hands. Let's look at an example of a portal user with the nickname Korkus and tell you:

• How to make a metal bench vise yourself.
• What parts are needed to make a homemade vice.
• What tools will be required?

Homemade bench vise: option No. 1

You can make excellent strong bench vices yourself from profile pipes. Below are detailed instructions in photo selection format, supplemented by a detailed video. Unfortunately. The video is in English, but this is unlikely to prevent a competent master from understanding the essence of the process.

Homemade vice from profile pipes

Do-it-yourself vice for a mechanic: step-by-step instructions

On the Internet you can find many options for homemade vices made by yourself. I also decided to make a bench vise from the metal I had, so as not to buy factory ones. And this is what came of it.

To make a homemade vice you need the following parts:

• The base of the vice is a metal plate 4 mm thick;
• Guide prism – profile pipe with a cross-section of 5x5 cm, wall thickness 4 mm;
• The base of the sponges is a corner with a shelf 7.5 cm, wall thickness 8 mm;
• The lead screw is a pin with a diameter of 20 mm;
• Also required was a metal strip 5 cm wide and 1 cm thick, a reinforced nut for the stud and an angle with a shelf 60 mm and a wall thickness of 5 mm.

The work on manufacturing bench vices was divided into a number of stages:

1. The base for the Korkus vice was welded from two metal plates measuring 20x16 cm.

Then the welding areas were cleaned.

2. In the center of the base, the user drew a line to mark the place for the lead screw - the pin. The nut for the lead screw is welded to a spacer 10 mm thick.

3. The vice guide is made of a square profile pipe, in which a longitudinal groove is made with a grinder slightly wider than the welded stand with a nut.

4. To attach the guide, a 60th corner (2 pieces) 20 cm long was used.

The corners wrap around the profile pipe, and a lid made of a strip 1 cm thick and 5 cm wide is welded on top of them. The result is a box.

In order for the profile pipe to move freely in the box and create a gap, spacers were used - 2 blades from a metal saw.

Because the gap between the plate and the corners turned out to be quite large, then, after welding the plate on top, I cut off the tacks and welded the same plate from the inside.

5. The base of the bench vice jaws is made of a durable angle with a 75 mm flange and an 8 mm wall.

The vise jaws are made of 1 cm thick strip.

Through holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are drilled in the corners and jaws.

Then the user cut M5 threads in the corners, drilled holes in the jaws with a 5.1 mm drill and countersunk the holes for countersunk.

Bolts are screwed into the jaws, and nuts are screwed on the back side, which are then scalded.

Drawing of jaws for a bench vice.

6. Two corners are welded at the end of the profile pipe.

The jaws are reinforced with triangular stiffeners and welded with a metal plate 4 mm thick.

Instructions for making a vice: option No. 2

Homemade vices do not require complex design developments and calculations. You can use numerous photos and drawings of such devices, which are easy to find on the Internet. A fairly simple, but at the same time very effective design is created on the basis of metal pipes.

As is known, pipes used for the installation of water and gas pipelines are manufactured in such a way that a product of a certain diameter fits tightly into a pipe of a subsequent standard size. It is this feature of the pipes that allows them to be used for such a device as a homemade bench vise. A visual drawing, photo and description of the manufacturing process will help you make this vise yourself.

Drawing of a homemade vice. Below are two photos of the finished product.

The structural elements that will make up a homemade vice are:

• a piece of metal pipe that will act as the internal moving part of the device;
• a piece of metal pipe of the following standard size, which will serve as an external fixed part;
• running nut with thread diameter M16;
• lead screw with thread diameter M16;
• a knob through which rotation will be imparted to the lead screw;
• front and rear supports, due to which the stationary pipe will be fixed to the base;
• pieces of rectangular pipe (future clamping jaws of a vice);
• two lock nuts with thread diameters M16 and M18.

Two main parts of the vice (movable and fixed)

To make such a vice with your own hands, you begin by welding a flange to the end of a section of a larger diameter pipe, which will act as a stationary element. A nut with an M16 thread must be welded into the central hole of the flange. A flange with a central hole into which the lead screw will be passed is also welded to the end of a section of a movable pipe of a smaller diameter.

Read also: Brick crown for sockets

At some distance from the edge of the lead screw, an M18 nut is welded to it (it will become a fixing element). After this, the end of the lead screw, to which the nut is welded, must be passed through the inside of the movable pipe and inserted into the hole in the flange. In this case, the nut should press against the flange from its inside.

Vise assembly (in the photo there is a hammer clamped in it)

A washer is put on the end of the lead screw protruding from the outside of the flange and an M16 nut is screwed on, which is then welded to the screw. A washer must also be installed between the inner nut and the flange surface, which is necessary to reduce the friction force. To correctly perform this stage of making a homemade vice, it is better to focus on the corresponding video.

After the movable vice assembly is assembled, you should insert it into a fixed pipe of a larger diameter and screw the second end of the lead screw into the nut of the second flange. To connect the lead screw with the knob, a nut or washer can be welded to its end protruding from the side of the movable pipe, into the holes of which the knob will be inserted.

The clamping jaws of such a vice can be made from sections of rectangular pipes, which are welded to the moving and fixed parts. To give the structure stability, two supports are welded to the bottom of the fixed pipe, for which corners or rectangular pipes can be used.

The inner tube can also rotate during the rotation of the lead screw, which makes the use of such a vice very inconvenient. To prevent this from happening, a longitudinal slot can be made in the upper part of the stationary pipe, and a locking screw can be screwed into the movable pipe, which will move along this slot and prevent rotation of the movable part.

Many photos of homemade vices of a similar design show devices whose moving and fixed parts are made of square or rectangular pipes. The use of such pipes also avoids rotation of the moving part of the vice.

The vise of the described design, authored by V. Legostaev, is a reliable and effective clamping device, easy to maintain and repair, which makes it very popular among home craftsmen.

If you do not plan to heavily load the vice, then it is quite possible to make it from wood according to a simple scheme

Need jaws for a vice

Good day to all! I can't find jaws for a 140mm vice. If anyone has it, please suggest it.

milling machine operators have

Use electric welding to weld a metal strip several times, and do it yourself

Mutru4, It's clear what they have.

LexxLexx wrote: Use electric welding to weld a metal strip several times, and do it yourself

LexxLexx, Hack work to be honest.

Kolbenschmid, . In terms of? Are there any special requirements for the vise jaws? With minimal effort, the result will be indistinguishable from the original.

LexxLexx wrote: Kolbenschmid, . In terms of? Are there any special requirements for the vise jaws? With minimal effort, the result will be indistinguishable from the original.

LexxLexx, This work cannot be called hack work. Cook from a strip (Oh, sorry

Kolbenschmid, -Saw! Saw, Shura! Saw! They are golden. )))) These sponges will cost you more than new yew trees ))) Are you, by any chance, building the Zenit Arena?

LexxLexx wrote: Are there any special requirements for the vise jaws?

At least hardness. The strip that is sold in the markets is St3

Do-it-yourself vice: making different options

A vice is one of the most important devices for facilitating the work of any craftsman, whether when working with metal or when working with wood. By holding the part in a vice, the master frees his hands for the tool. In addition, a vice can hold a part more tightly than by hand. Moreover, manufacturing accuracy is improved.

There are different types of vices – general purpose (universal) and specialized (for specific jobs).

Regular benchtop vice, small benchtop vice, hand jewelry vice PHOTO: Leonid Shalman

Bench vice made from corrugated pipe

In order to make a reliable bench vise, you need a welding machine and the following components:

1. Several sections of professional pipe of different sizes.
2. Hardened steel stud with coarse thread.
3. Double height nuts.

A drawing of a vice for a workbench is shown in the illustration. This is a universal option; changes in design are possible, depending on your tasks.

Manufacturing procedure

Supports are welded to the larger diameter pipe (body) from below. A rear wall (flange) made of 3-5 mm steel is welded on the rear side. A hole is drilled in the center and the running nut is welded. The rear jaw is welded on top, opposite the front support.

A front flange made of 3-5 mm steel is welded onto the end of the internal movable pipe. A stud with welded lock nuts is inserted into it. Thrust washers must be installed on both sides of the flange. An eyelet is welded onto the front end of the stud for the knob. The front jaw is attached to the top of the movable pipe.

For reliability, metal plates made of hardened steel can be screwed onto the jaws, for example, holders from turning tools, with notches made with a file. Homemade bench vise, shown in the photo:

Basic elements of a vice for a home workshop

The vice consists of several parts. The main elements are jaws - movable and fixed, between which the workpiece is clamped. The fixed jaw is made as one piece with the base. A nut is fixed in the movable jaw, through which a powerful lead screw passes. At one end of the screw there is a handle by which it is rotated, the other end rotates freely in a stationary jaw. When you rotate the handle, the movable jaw moves towards the stationary one.

The base can be made of two parts. The lower one is tightly attached to the work table (workbench), and the entire vice mechanism is assembled on the upper one. Some models can rotate around a vertical axis.

Main elements of a vice PHOTO: usamodelkina.ru

How to make your own carpenter's vice

Almost any home craftsman has to deal with the processing of wooden products. The need for such processing may be associated both with the manufacture of various wooden structures, and with the repair of existing ones. Carrying out this work using improvised devices with metal clamping elements is not only inconvenient, but also fraught with damage to the surface of the wooden part, the appearance of dents and cracks on it. This is why it is best to use a carpenter's vice for wooden products. Making them yourself is also easy.

Homemade vice with wooden guides

As in the case of a bench vice, finding drawings, photos and even videos of the manufacture of such devices on the Internet is not difficult.

The simplest design of a homemade carpentry vice consists of the following elements:

• bodies made of solid wood, which also serves as a fixed clamping jaw;
• a movable sponge made of a wooden block;
• cylindrical metal guides along which the movable jaw will move;
• a lead screw that ensures movement of the movable jaw;
• a crank through which rotation is imparted to the lead screw.

The device of a carpenter's vice

The body of such a vice, on which the metal guides are fixed, is attached to the surface of the workbench using long screws or bolts. It is necessary to make three holes in both the body and the movable jaw of the clamping device - for the guides and the lead screw. It is best to drill such holes simultaneously in both bars so that they are positioned exactly relative to each other.

Attaching the vise to the bottom of the workbench

After the guides are fixed in the body, a movable clamping jaw is put on them. Then a screw is inserted into the central hole of both bars, onto which a nut is screwed from the back of the body. A nut must also be screwed and welded onto the second end of the screw, which protrudes beyond the front surface of the movable jaw. To secure the knob to the front end of the lead screw, a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in the screw (or a nut is welded to it).

The photo shows the principle of assembling such a vice

Such a vice operates as follows: when rotating, the lead screw is screwed into a nut fixed on the back of the support, thereby attracting the movable clamping jaw to it.

The vise is mounted on the workbench and ready to go

Thus, the manufacture of metalworking and carpentry vices for a home workshop does not require any special skills or the search for hard-to-find components.

DIY bench vice

Factory-made vices can be purchased at a tool store. But you have to pay a lot of money for them. In addition, a true master always has a set of individual requirements for tools and devices. That's why many craftsmen make their own vices. But to perform such work, you need to be able to do a lot: make competent drawings, be a good mechanic and welder, work on lathes, milling and drilling machines. But you can make a unique vice that no one else has.

How to do it yourself?

First, decide on the material . We have already talked about how to choose it correctly. There is no need to limit yourself; you can make several pairs of clamping bars “at a time” and change them as needed.

Next, remove the old linings . This work is very labor-intensive; the bolts are probably rusty, and it will not be possible to simply remove the linings. Then they need to be cut down with a grinder and a cutting wheel. But be prepared that you won’t be able to unscrew the remaining bolts. Then they need to be sanded down, and then new holes must be drilled and threaded.

Next, we begin production. Using simple tools you can make good wooden trims. In this case, they will be secured not with screws, but with magnets, and there will be no need to remove the old jaws.

The main idea is to make easily removable sponges. They are attached to the magnets with a bracket made of sheet metal 1–2 mm thick. The work consists of performing a certain sequence of steps.

1. Take 2 identical wooden blocks. Their thickness should be sufficient so that a screw can be screwed into the end. The length and width are determined by the size of the vice.
2. Attach a magnet to the top of each sponge. Find the position in which they hold with the greatest strength.
3. Clamp both of our new pads in a vice.
4. Make a template out of paper by attaching it to the pad and magnet. Make the necessary folds. Next, cut out the resulting shape, straighten it and transfer the contours to the metal.
5. Give the metal blank the required shape. To do this, attach it to the pad and magnet and make bends. Then remove burrs and sharp edges.
6. Secure the brackets to our wooden trim with 2 screws. To do this you need to drill holes.
7. To make another sponge, do the same.

The magnet does not need to be attached to the bracket at all - it will hold on independently. But if you need more reliability, then it can be attached with screws or glue. Great strength is not required, since the connection is not affected by fastening forces.

The advantages of such homemade sponges are ease of execution and low cost, as well as the fact that the pads can be quickly removed and installed. Disadvantage: the working stroke of the vice is reduced.

The main requirement is that the pads must be strictly parallel.

You can also make metal jaws , but you can’t do it without equipment. Standard fasteners must be used. But make sure the mounting grooves are straight. If this is not the case, they need to be leveled with a router, dremel or by grinding.

New clamping bars can be made from old turning tools.

1. Use a caliper or bore gauge to determine the required dimensions.
2. Make 2 metal bars along them. These will be the sponges.
3. Drill 2 holes. They must clearly coincide with the installation ones and lie strictly perpendicular to the surface of the clamp. This is the most crucial moment. To guarantee their diameter can be made a little larger.
4. Make recesses in the holes for countersunk bolts. It is better to use a counterbore so that the bottom is flat and not conical.
5. Using a Dremel or grinder with a thin circle, apply marks.
6. Temper the jaws and then release them. The temperature depends on the brand of material.
7. Secure the pads to a vice. If they “sit” unevenly, adjust the required dimensions. After hardening, this can only be done by grinding.

DIY vice for a drilling machine

A drill press vise differs from a regular bench vise in its overall height. They are significantly lower.

Materials and tools

The materials and tools used are the same as in the previous case.

Blueprints

The drawings differ only in the chosen design and the dimensions of the parts.

Manufacturing instructions

The manufacturing technology is determined by the fact that metal is being worked. Specific parts are manufactured according to specific drawings. Between the variants of different models of vices, the only fundamental difference can be in where the running nut is installed - on the moving or stationary part. This determines how the lead screw is secured. And another nuance: a vice for a drilling machine usually moves freely around the workbench.

Vise for drilling machine PHOTO: usamodelkina.ru

Making a drilling machine

Necessary materials

It’s quite easy to make a homemade vice for a drilling machine at home. They do not require complex calculations and design developments. You can find a lot of high-quality drawings of bench vices on the Internet. A very simple but high-quality design is made using iron pipes or channels.

To assemble a bench vise with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

1. A small iron pipe that will serve as the internal moving part of the device;
2. A smaller iron pipe that will serve as an external fixed part;
3. Large nut size M16;
4. Large screw size M16;
5. A special knob through which rotation will be transmitted to the screw;
6. Two metal supports that will fix the stationary part on the frame;
7. Two pieces of metal rectangular profile that will serve as vise jaws;
8. Several lock nuts size M16.

Bench vice

Assembling such a home-made structure must begin by attaching a flange to the edge of the end of a large metal pipe, which will be the stationary unit of the device, using a manual welding machine. You need to weld a nut size M16 into the center of the flange. Next, another flange must be welded to the end of the smaller iron pipe and a lead screw must be inserted into it.

Another nut needs to be welded to the edge of the screw, which will serve as a fixing element. The end of the screw to which the nut is attached must be passed through a small diameter pipe, and then inserted into the through hole of the flange. It is worth remembering that the nut must be screwed to the flange from the inside.

On the lead screw, which is located outside the flange, you need to put a washer and screw on the nut. Next, it is securely welded to the screw. Another washer should be installed between the surface of the metal flange and the nut. This will help reduce the friction between them. At this stage of work you need to be very careful and avoid mistakes.

After assembling the movable assembly of the device, you need to insert it into a larger metal pipe and screw the other end of the screw into another flange. In order to attach the knob to a screw that protrudes slightly from a smaller pipe, it is worth welding a nut or a fly to it. You need to pass the knob into its through hole.

Good clamping jaws for bench bench vices should be made from small rectangular pipes. They need to be secured to the fixed and moving parts of the device. To make the vice much more stable, several supports must be welded to the bottom of the stationary iron pipe. Their role can be played by rectangular pipes and pieces of corners.

A small pipe can also rotate when the lead screw rotates. This makes the use of such a design very problematic. To avoid this, make a small slot on top of the stationary pipe and screw the lock into the moving part. This screw must move in the slot without allowing the small pipe to rotate.

Carpentry tools

Many people have to process wooden parts quite often. This processing is usually associated with the assembly of various wooden structures or their repair. It is very inconvenient to do such work using factory devices with iron clamping jaws. This can also lead to damage to the wooden product, cracks or dents. For this reason, it is better to use a homemade vice for wooden parts. It doesn't take much time or effort to assemble them.

To assemble a carpenter's vice with your own hands, you need to find the following materials:

Read also: Machine for cutting gas blocks

1. A small body made of a durable wooden beam, which will act as a stationary sponge;
2. Wooden beam for movable sponge;
3. Cylindrical iron guides along which the moving part must move;
4. A metal screw that can ensure the movement of the movable jaw;
5. A durable knob that will transmit rotation to the screw.

A bed of a similar cross design, on which metal guides are fixed, is fixed on the working surface of the workbench using bolts or self-tapping screws. Three through holes must be drilled in the movable jaw of the vice and in the body. They are needed for a screw and two metal guides. These through holes should be drilled simultaneously in both bars so that they are at the same level relative to each other.

Next, the guides are fixed in the body of the machine tool, and a movable jaw is placed on them. A lead screw must be inserted into the central through hole of the two corner bars, onto which a nut is screwed from the back of the housing. A lock nut must also be screwed and welded onto the other end of the screw, which extends beyond the front of the moving part. To attach the knob to the screw, you should drill a through hole of the same diameter in it. Next, another nut is welded to the collar.

These mini carpentry vices work very simply. While rotating, the lead screw is screwed into a metal nut, which is welded to the back side of the product body. Thus, the movable sponge is attracted to the stationary part. Their operating principle is very similar to a jack.

Hello, dear community members. To protect the parts from damage when fastening them in a vice, I used plywood in the old-fashioned way, with heaps. I was pretty tired of this whole thing and I solved this problem radically.

Comments 62

The sponges are good, but the tiles in the yard are even better.

Thank you very much!

Well done! Great job, but where can we collect so many “pots”?)))))

Collecting raw materials is the easiest thing!

It depends where, we have cans of beer horseradish in the trash, everything flies in the color of metal, and motor mechanics also hand it over there, I recently asked one motor mechanic for one piston, I wanted to cut off the bottom in a lathe and make a stand for cutting out gaskets, that is using punches to cut out gaskets, on aluminum it’s normal and the punches don’t get dull, but on a board or plywood it’s too soft, so he whined, whined, in short, I sent him and told him to choke

I used to work at a service station, and I still have friends. Supply in unlimited quantities. And for cutting out gaskets I have a T-130 piston.

Everything is clear, I also found a piston from a half-third lawn with a diameter of 92, and I ruble on it, in principle it’s enough

I use an aluminum corner that is the size of the sponges; if you need them for a long time, use double-sided tape.

I am not a Rockefeller son, and such jaws are rarely required, so I bought pads with profile cutouts for clamping round material in both horizontal and vertical clamping. They are attached to the original lips with magnets implanted in them, they hide approximately 20mm from the maximum size and are not expensive. True, I bought them in Sweden, but I think you can find them here too, if you look, Ali probably has them too.

The costs are low, 150 rubles for a turner, 100 rubles for coal for the furnace and 4 rubles for new bolts

That’s not what I’m talking about, it’s a bit of a hassle and it’s easier to buy ready-made ones. I've used them five times this whole year. Of course, if you often work a lot with something that requires careful clamping, then you need to have a separate vice for this and with just such jaws, and not turn them over several times a day.

Show me how you assembled the crucible and how you heat it! And for the lips, there are no words)).

Great, of course, but wouldn’t it be easier to make ordinary mouthpieces from a duralumin corner?

I think the screws should have been set deeper

I agree, I will take this comment into account.

Eh...such a noble V-28 would turn out from these pistons...)))

Great idea, I was just wondering where to get jaws for a vice.

with lots of beer

They made pieces of aluminum corner and they hold just as well, you can also adapt a PVC pipe!

The screws will not hold. It was necessary to install it under the internal hexagon.

And how long will they last?

Can you tell me more about the oven?

I have a piece of paronite 3 millimeters thick. I bent it with a corner and, if necessary, add it and that’s it. no need to screw or unscrew and paronite is softer than aluminum. the truth wears out faster.

usually made from a sheet of copper... bent at a corner and placed in a yew)))

There is no copper. There is an unnecessary paronite))

As one of my friends says, WOW SHAITAN! :))) Well, of course I was confused))

Read also: DIY tire recycling machine

What did you use to cut it, how did you mill it?

I cut it off with a grinder and took it to the turner.

It’s easier to make, melt, cast from an electrical busbar... this is of course tough))))

And where can you get so much aluminum? It’s all in scrap metal right after dismantling. You won’t have time to look back. And the idea is great!

in scrap metal and take it. and also at the showdown of such a Mr. shaft

And where can you get so much aluminum? It’s all in scrap metal right after dismantling. You won’t have time to look back. And the idea is great!

You can still grab the devil by the beard) he seems to have recently made capital

On Sunday we talked, we met at a car shop, the engine will be rebuilt. I’ll live there!

Well, there you go. the main desire )

Yes, it’s easy, there are corners and wedges made of aluminum!

I probably missed the most important thing. What and how did you melt the pistons?

This cannot be done at home without a special oven and a milling machine.

That's what we're talking about, you need a supercharged furnace. Just because of the jaws, there is no point in walling up the furnace; then the casting will still need to be milled to fit the size of the vice. Again, if you need to rigidly fix steel parts, then these jaws will not work; you will have to remove and install standard ones with a notch. Rearranging every time is also not very convenient. For most, it is easier to make false jaws from aluminum angle. But having a second vice like this, in addition to the main ones, would be nice.

It’s not difficult to make reliable and easy-to-use vices with your own hands. The need for this may be caused not only by the desire to save on the purchase of a serial model, but also by the need to use a clamping device that will allow it to more effectively solve the tasks assigned to it.

Simple homemade vice from corners

Serial models of vices, although they are universal, are not always able to provide high precision in fixing parts; they are quite bulky and have a significant weight.

Homemade vices, used primarily in a home workshop, can be made more suitable for performing certain technological operations, and therefore more efficient and convenient.

Homemade bench vices may differ little from factory ones in both appearance and reliability.

Any person who spends a lot of time in his home workshop will confirm that it is quite difficult to do without such a device as a vice. Without a clamping device, it is difficult to perform various operations with parts made of metal, wood and plastic. The use of a vice guarantees not only high accuracy and efficiency of drilling, milling, etc. operations, but also the safety of the machine operator. If there is no desire or opportunity to purchase a serial model of such a device, then it is quite possible to make a vice with your own hands, spending very little time and effort on it.

Carpenter's vice for workbench

Wooden vices are quite suitable for carpentry and carpentry work. They will have to bear significantly less load than when working with metal.

Materials and tools

As initial blanks, you can take three bars with a cross-section from 40×40 mm² to 60×60 mm² and a length of 250 – 300 mm. Dimensions are determined from the requirements for the size of future parts. You also need a lead screw with nuts; a commercial stud with an M10 - M12 thread will do. For the base, you can use a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm and a size of 300x500 mm. For fastening, you will need self-tapping screws with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of at least 40 mm.

Common carpentry and carpentry tools: wood saw, plane, drill.

Blueprints

The structure is visible from the photograph.

Wooden vice for a workbench PHOTO: youtube.com

Classic homemade vice

There are many types of vices, but the most popular and traditional is the type with steel material.
Such a vice will be much more reliable than a factory-made one. The structure consists of:

• a steel plate of at least 3 mm, but it can be much thicker;
• external and internal channel (120 and 100 mm);
• steel lugs;
• turning cutters 2 pieces;
• a small piece of reinforcement (rod for a gate);
• a nut (2 pieces), a pin or a screw of a certain diameter that corresponds to the rod;
• washer (2 pieces) of the same diameter with the lead screw;
• screw pair 335 mm;
• To secure the propeller chassis, a thick plate is needed.

It is necessary to separate the lead screw with washers on both sides of the plate. One of the two washers must be secured with a cotter pin or a locking ring, so that the part is completely removable; you must first weld the screw thread to it.

The handle should also be collapsible on one side, and welded on the other side using a nut. It is necessary to weld a nut with a channel from the screws flush to the plate. To make the channel inside with the screw move easier while moving, it is recommended to lightly process it with a file.

Sponges are welded to the so-called ears, made from turning cutters. They are placed in the right place when the lead screw is screwed in, so the ears stand at the ideal distance from each other.

These homemade vices allow you to process larger parts.

To perform work in a home workshop, it is recommended to choose the simplest fixed vice for the machine.

It’s not at all difficult to make them yourself, you just have to watch the videos and recommendations, which can be found without much difficulty on the Internet and first draw up the drawings correctly.