How to select a quarter on a board using a circular saw

Rallying in a quarter

A quarter splice
produces a tighter joint than a butt splice. Longitudinal side cuts (quarters) are made in the boards to be joined using a hand router, electric planer or circular saw. The depth and width of the quarter should be equal to half the thickness of the board. This type of connection leaves no cracks or gaps. Quarter bonding is useful for cladding external and internal surfaces. For example, to hide unevenness or defects in walls, insulation and flooring.

1. For an example of cutting a quarter with a circular saw, take 3 identical boards (photo 1).

2. At the beginning of work, mark 1/4 of their width on the boards on both sides. Prepare the circular saw. To do this, adjust the reach of the saw blade so that the cutting depth is equal to half the thickness of the board (photo 2).

3. For the required distance (half the thickness of the board) of the cut from the edge of the board, we adjust the parallel stop of the saw (photo 3).

4. We secure the workpiece on the work table with clamps and make a longitudinal cut with a circular saw (photo 4).

5. After this, we make longitudinal cuts on the back sides of the board (photo 5).

6. Again, secure the workpiece with clamps on the work table (photo 6.1) and make transverse cuts equal to half the thickness of the board (photo 6.2-6.4).

7. In this way we make 2 more blanks (photo 7).

8. Place the workpiece on 2 perpendicular boards (photo 8).

9. We nail the prepared blanks to their base (photo 9.1, 9.2).

10. When nailing the next workpiece, press it tightly against the previous one and fix it with nails using a hammer (photo 10).

11. The quarter joint is ready (photo 11).

Source: otdelka-profi.ru

Some tips

• Don't forget about safety precautions.
• If the boards are long, work with an assistant.
• The boards must be the same thickness.
• Do not use freshly cut lumber. Let them dry for at least 1 year.

In the following articles we will continue the story about woodworking techniques and the tools used.

Milling cutters are classified mainly by their purpose and shape. The most common of them are profile, grooved, for cutting quarters, for chamfering, conical for cutting grooves and dovetail joints. In addition, the home carpenter, although less often, has to deal with such wood cutters for a manual router as end cutters, fitting cutters, type cutters, for processing edges and ends for gluing, and also for cutting out a T-shaped groove.

What tools do you use?

Methods for making grooves, tongues and grooves vary depending on the arsenal of tools you have at your disposal and whether the finished joint will be visible after the project is finally assembled. (The attached table will help you compare the advantages and disadvantages of these methods.) Remember that some connections can be hidden behind the facade frames, and a more or less even groove can be made even better using special cutters (see the section “Cutters for cleaning grooves will remove flaws in the sawing machine” ).

Having much in common, these samples nevertheless differ depending on their location in the wooden blank. The fold forms an L-shaped depression along the edge or end. The groove has two shoulders (walls) and is located transverse to the direction of the fibers. The tongue also has two walls, but it is located along the grain.

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What does drying out lead to?

A typical case: you made a shed at your dacha to store household equipment and for other needs. They did it for themselves, so they pulled together the boards from which the walls were made, carefully, without the slightest crack. Two or three months pass; the boards dry out and the entire wall glows with cracks. In winter, snow blows through them; in summer, the wind blows dust inside the barn.

To prevent this from happening, you need to use quarter boards for wall cladding. A wall covered with such boards will never have through gaps. With their quarters, neighboring boards overlap each other and when they dry out, through cracks no longer appear.

Unfortunately, lumber is very rarely sold with a quarter finished. Therefore, an amateur craftsman should know the ways in which boards can be modified if necessary.

What does drying out lead to?

A typical case: you made a shed at your dacha to store household equipment and for other needs. They did it for themselves, so they pulled together the boards from which the walls were made, carefully, without the slightest crack. Two or three months pass; the boards dry out and the entire wall glows with cracks. In winter, snow blows through them; in summer, the wind blows dust inside the barn.

To prevent this from happening, you need to use quarter boards for wall cladding. A wall covered with such boards will never have through gaps. With their quarters, neighboring boards overlap each other and when they dry out, through cracks no longer appear.

Unfortunately, lumber is very rarely sold with a quarter finished. Therefore, an amateur craftsman should know the ways in which boards can be modified if necessary.

Making planks with grooves at home

Often you have to make furniture or make repairs at home, using the simplest methods and what is at hand.

If you need to make a groove in the board with your own hands, be patient and have the necessary tools:

1. A circular saw. The most practical tool, but, unfortunately, not everyone has it.
2. A regular hacksaw for wood. It will take longer to work with it, but this accessory can be found in every home.
3. Electric drill. It is also quite accessible, but before making a groove in a board with a drill, it is advisable to practice on an unnecessary block, practicing the skill.

Making a groove with a circular saw.

The optimal materials are wooden boards, bars and the like. The price of raw materials is minimal; in extreme cases, what is available on the farm is used. The most successful solution is a through, single open straight end connection.

The joint will be strong and reliable:

1. It is recommended to make tenons with a thickness of ¼ of the thickness of the plank and a groove of the same size.
2. The height and length of the groove must correspond to the dimensions of the plank.
3. Prepare a pencil and ruler for marking.
4. Decide on the coordinates of the cut and mark it.
5. The cut should be made along a line inside the side that will then be separated.
6. For a circular saw, the instructions recommend a blade width of 2-4 mm.
7. Sawing in the middle of the marked line removes 1-2 mm of excess, since two grooves are made on each plank.

1. If you need to join two parts at a 90º angle, cut the pieces at 45º at the ends.
2. For an end-to-end open miter connection (single straight), mark the cut locations on the oblique cuts of the planks.
3. Before removing the groove from the board, double-check that the cut is correct on all sides.
4. For an angular single connection that is not through the eye, an eye is made instead of a groove. In this case, the width of the tenon is left unchanged, and the length will be 0.3-0.8 of the width of the board being attached.
5. Since the circular saw rounds the edges of the eye, leaving the shape of the tenon unchanged, it is advisable to refine the corners by turning them with a rasp.

The photo shows a groove being cut out with a drill.

The method is quite labor-intensive, but it can be called an alternative to the one described above. If you were unable to get a hand router, prepare a drill and chisel, ruler and pencil.

1. Select a drill with a diameter corresponding to the width of the future groove.
2. To guess the depth of the groove, you can make a mark on the drill itself (for example, draw it with bright paint).
3. Draw two parallel lines along the block at the required distance from each other.
4. Having secured the workpiece in a vice, drill a furrow, carefully monitoring the vertical position of the drill and maintaining the depth.
5. When finished, remove all excess with a sharp chisel and sand with emery cloth.

Making a transverse groove with a hacksaw.

Well-done markings will help a lot here.

Select a hacksaw blade that is smooth and durable:

1. To avoid mistakes, draw two lines along the length of the board, on opposite sides. The distance from the top plane to them will be the depth.
2. Securely secure the block and begin sawing.
3. It is important to monitor, checking the lines, how far the canvas fits into the wood.
4. If the tool is skewed, you can ruin everything, so periodically watch the hacksaw’s entry into the material from the side angles.
5. With a wide groove and a thin blade, it is more effective to make two cuts, again along the inner sides of the cut.
6. All excess is carefully removed with a chisel and cleaned.

You can select a quarter using several methods using different tools. For example:

• electric plane,
• milling cutter,
• hand circular saw,
• stationary circular saw.

The last method - selecting a quarter using a circular saw - is the most convenient and productive. Let's consider it.

1. We adjust the reach of the saw blade so that the cutting depth is equal to half the thickness of the board being processed. The easiest way to do this is right on the spot. To do this, place the board on the side of the saw blade, as shown in the photo, and adjust the reach of the blade.

2. We install a parallel stop on the machine so that the width of the cut is also equal to half the thickness of the board. We take into account the thickness of the disk itself. This completes the machine setup.

3. We make longitudinal cuts on opposite sides of the board.

4. We make cuts from the ends of the board. A quarter is ready. As a by-product we get glazing bead)).

As mentioned, a stationary circular saw is very convenient for selecting quarters. (There is a separate article on our website about the types of circular saws and the features of their choice.) But it is not always in the master’s arsenal, and sometimes it is physically impossible to use it.

If you need to cut quarters out of thick, long boards, you can use a hand-held circular saw. The manufacturing principle and sequence of operations are the same. The difference is that in this case the board being processed and the tool change places. The board is fixed motionless, and the master moves the circular saw with a parallel stop along it manually.

Material for wood cutters

Milling cutters are made from high-speed steel (more affordable), from carbide (expensive) and with carbide brazed plates. The durability of carbide blades exceeds that of high-speed steel blades by almost 25 times. These cutters can also be used for processing materials with a high adhesive content (for example, chipboard and MDF boards), difficult-to-cut wood (for example, teak), plastic and aluminum. However, when processing soft wood, the best results are obtained with high-speed steel cutters, the blades of which can be sharpened.

A worthy alternative to these two types of cutters are cutters with removable, rotating, non-sharpenable carbide plates, which, in comparison with cutters with sharpened plates, are more economical (suffice it to say that sharpening a cutter sometimes costs almost twice as much as its cost). Removing and putting the cutting plates in a different position is a very simple matter.

The advantage of cutters with removable and rotating plates is that their working diameter remains constant. When sharpening the blades, it gradually decreases.

There are cutters with removable rotary plates: grooved (08.010 and 012 mm), for milling around the perimeter - 016 mm, fitting, for chamfering and quartering. Due to the high peripheral speed, large-diameter cutters are used only on stationary milling devices. Of course, the range of cutters is constantly expanding, and thanks to this, the technological capabilities of home craftsmen can also expand.

These are not all cutters for a hand router. There are many of them and we will try to tell you about them all.

Please advise which tool to use to select a quarter in the boards. The work is not regular, as needed. The boards are supposed to be used for cladding.

VG wrote: Please advise which tool to choose a quarter in boards

a manual circular saw in two passes, a stationary circular saw, if you place two discs through a washer, then in one pass. with a plane in 4-6 passes (not all models choose a quarter, the depth at a time is 2 mm.) with a groove cutter and a hand router. -1 pass. (the disadvantage of the cutter is that it is almost impossible to sharpen; it sits quickly.) with a disk cutter on a universal machine. and by hand with a plane

here's a cutter for you" > on a circular saw in one pass.

Thanks for the detailed answer. There is a manual circular saw and an electric planer. It is not very clear how to pass the thickness with a circular saw (if in two passes). For example, if the board is 20. Circular cutter, for production in one pass - suitable for manual or not? I've never seen anything like this in a store. Is it interesting that they sell it in St. Petersburg? Another question about the router (I’m thinking about buying it or not). If they choose a quarter, how many meters (approximately) will the cutter last? In general, does it make sense to buy it for this and work like: making skirting boards, tongue and groove floorboards, etc. for small volumes - 20-30 m?

VG wrote: Circular cutter, for manufacturing in one pass - is it suitable for manual or not?

I haven’t tried it, but the gearbox should pull.

VG wrote: If they choose a quarter, how many meters (approximately) will the cutter be enough?

50 meters should be enough, then the edge needs to be corrected

VG wrote: approximate) In general, it makes sense to buy it for this and work like: making plinths, tongue-and-groove floorboards

absolutely not . Even a two-kilowatt cutter won’t handle such cutters; the diameter of the cutters needs to be large. here is a tenon groove for them to choose well

VG wrote: it is very clear how to go through the thickness with a circular saw (if in two passes). For example, if the board is 20.

It’s been written a hundred times already, the first pass of all the boards on a plane. Then you adjust the circular saw by a couple of mm, the board on the edge so that the circular saw on the 20mm edge does not fall over, collect several boards in a pack with clamps or attach an even block to the board. But that's what I personally do. First pass » > Second pass » >

Read also: Galvanic coating method

Personally, I choose a quarter with a Dioldov milling cutter and simply pee with delight.

Alexey wrote: I choose a quarter with a Dioldov milling cutter

Why don’t you use groove cutters?

For quarter and tongue and groove do you need a powerful router or is a simpler and lighter one enough?

VG wrote: For quarter and tongue and groove do you need a powerful router or is a simpler and lighter one enough?

Quite simpler and more powerful. because precision accuracy is not required. Just make sure that the side support is properly made, and not a piece of broken hardware.

alex_k wrote: with a plane in 4-6 passes (not all models choose a quarter, the depth is 2 mm at a time.)

In addition to the fact that not all planes select a quarter, there is also a limitation on the maximum depth of the quarter for the planes that select it. But the sampling depth can reach up to 4 mm in one pass.

alex_k wrote: Quite simpler and more powerful. because precision accuracy is not required. just make sure that the side support is properly made, and not a piece of broken hardware

Can you suggest any models of milling cutters that fit this definition? I'm still swimming in this topic. I've searched the forum, but there's no clarity yet.

So no one can tell? I want to buy a router next week, but I still haven’t decided.

For those who are undecided, I wrote in Russian - we buy the cheapest milling cutter that is on sale - Diold for 1.1 kW for 1100 rubles. and choose as many quarters as you like. I picked out a quarter for them in a door frame, in a window frame. I chose a quarter in 40mm boards for two door panels. I chose grooves with a cross section of 50*25 mm in 50 mm boards. Tyam didn’t have enough time to use this router for grooves when making the socket, but as soon as he mastered the tool, the first thing he did was those 50*25 grooves that I wrote about above. In the process of reading the forum, I thought that the router is something for frames and lace profego,, girlish,, At the moment, I’m sure that the router is a carpentry tool that can do EVERYTHING / perhaps with Bosch it’s different - just frills / Groove cutters - I’m just learning, and Expensive, a set of cutters is twice as expensive as a router.

Inlay

Cutting thin, flush inlays requires shallow cuts and precision, making a router the ideal tool for the job. Inlaying requires shallow digging into the wood to seat the pieces flush with the surface. You can do the job with other routers, but an edge router is best suited for this task. Its small size and much lighter weight are an advantage over other models, as they provide better accuracy when inserting inlay elements.

Source: hobbywood.ru

Safety rules when working with an electric planer

An electric planer is a device that requires safety precautions when working with it. The main damaging (traumatic) factors are:

• a tool drum rotating at high speed with knives located on it;
• electric current flowing through the device.

To safely work with an Interskol electric planer or any other model, you must follow the following rules.

• Wood burrs - features, how to choose, characteristics

1. The workplace must be kept clean and well lit.
2. Do not use power tools in areas where there is a significant risk of fire or explosion due to the presence of flammable liquids, dust or gas.
3. Do not allow unauthorized persons or children near the operating tool, and it must be stored in a place inaccessible to them.
4. It is forbidden to be distracted by other things while working, as this may cause loss of control over the tool.
5. Do not allow water to come into contact with the power tool you are using, and do not carry it while holding it by the cord.
6. If an extension cord is used, it must be suitable for the load and also have complete insulation.
7. The power cable should be kept away from very hot objects and temperature sources, from moving parts of various mechanisms, as well as from sharp edges and various liquids (especially oil).
8. It is prohibited for the body to come into contact with grounded surfaces (for example, radiators and heating pipes) while working with the plane.
9. It is prohibited to use power tools while under the influence of alcohol or drugs, as well as under the influence of medications or fatigue.
10. Preventive maintenance of the device should be carried out regularly.
11. Do not touch the running drum with your hands.

Connecting a power tool through an RCD (residual current device) in any case increases the safety of working with the equipment. Protection should be selected according to the load size.